Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. Kelvin Wave #2 in Flight - Active MJO #3 Strong - Equatorial Sea Surface Temps Rising Fast Current marine weather and wave analysis plus forecast conditions for the next 72 hours. SST Anomaly Projections W wind 5 kt. Today: Sunny with isolated showers. WED Still, neither of these forecasts seems realistic (see IRI Consensus forecast below). Global-Pacific wave (swell) map for surfers, windsurfers and sailors showing open ocean wave size, wave period and wave energy. Looking at the long term record, it seems likely we are still in the Cool Phase of the PDO (La Nina 'like') with no signs of moving to the positive/warm phase (El Nino 'like'). At Santa Cruz surf was waist high or so on the sets and clean and soft. Run in that direction. Freezing level falling steadily from there down to 4,000 ft on 3/6. Friday the 12th, so far, looks about chest+ at south facing breaks, with NW dropping to nil. Swell NW 8 ft at 9 seconds. Symbols shown on the map: Pacific-Ocean Cities, Ski Resorts, Mountain Peaks, Pacific-Ocean Surf Breaks, Tide Forecasts, All snow, city, surf, tide forecasts, Pacific-Ocean Temperature Observations, Wind Observations, Weather Observations - new, Pacific-Ocean Wind Observations - new, Temperature Observations - new, Weather Observations, Pacific-Ocean Live Webcams. There looks like there will be pockets of lighter winds as our local catalina eddy spins up, so near Ventura and LA looks lighter than OC most mornings. South Central Pacific Gale St. George CA out 10 nm 6 ft. FRI A gale developed in the Southwestern Pacific with swell from it fading in California (see Southwestern Pacific Gale below). Fetch and seas fading quickly after that. It is characterized in it's Inactive Phase by enhanced trade winds and dry weather over the part of the equator it is in control of, and in it's Active Phase by slackening if not an outright reversing trade winds while enhancing precipitation. Good odds for swell radiating northeast towards the US West Coast, Central America and South America. In the evening the gale is to be fading while lifting northeast off the Pacific Northwest with 40 kt west winds and seas 24 ft at 43N 140W aimed east. 12am 26th Apr 2023 (GMT) Swell Chart for California, South California, South Webcams View All 17th Street 36th St. Newport 54th St. waves 2 ft or less. Swell NW 4 to 5 ft. PZZ370-011600 Customize forecasts for any offshore location and save them for future use. Within 360 nautical miles east of F1 from 50S 160E to 55S 162E: Areas of fog, heavy northwest swell. 1 Week Forecast (GFS Model): On (2/24) moderate east anomalies were filling the KWGA. Over the next 72 hours no swell producing fetch of interest is forecast. These forecasts are prepared by the Ocean Prediction Center, National Hurricane Center, Honolulu Forecast Office, Juneau Forecast Office, Anchorage Forecast Office, and Fairbanks Forecast Office. Surface Water Temps Intermediate/Utility Class: Winter - Swell and period combination generating faces at head high to 1.5 times overhead (4-7 ft). Slight Amazing. Southwest Pacific Gale A broad trough of low pressure is expected to bud a surface low near New Caledonia over the short term, generating more quality E-E/NE swell as the low drifts through the South Pacific slot and into the Tasman. SW wind 5 ktbacking to SE after midnight. Perhaps another small gale to develop in the Western Gulf on Sun PM (2/27) with 45 kt west winds over a tiny area and seas building from 24 flat 43N 157.5W aimed east. PZZ300-290400. NOAA declared La Nina dead. On Thursday (2/24) North and Central CA had set waves at chest high on the sets and fairly clean and lined up but still with some warble in the water. These therefore have a significant impact on the production of swell and surf. Residuals continue if not rebuilding slightly later Sat (5/6) at 1.6 ft @ 13 secs (2.0 ft). Possible small swell from Pt Conception northward. Summer - Waist to chest high. During the Active Phase in the Pacific the MJO tends to support the formation of stronger and longer lasting gales resulting in enhanced potential for the formation of swell producing storms. See it Here Our Weather Data SHORT- TERM FORECAST There are signs of warming along the coasts of Chile. Also called 'Background' swell. This feature requires a Premium Membership. On Thursday (2/24) the jet was consolidated pushing firmly east off Japan on the 36N latitude line with winds to 190 kts pushing flat over the dateline to 155W not forming any troughs though still supportive of gale development just based on wind speeds alone. The GODAS animation appears to be 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately modeled. But La Nina made a strong return by the end of Sept much like what the CFS model suggested would happen and a full double dip pattern took hold through the Winter of 21/22. This is a clear El Nino signal. Wind waves 3 ft building to West wind anomalies in the KWGA suggest the Active Phase of the MJO in the Pacific, and east anomalies suggests the Inactive Phase. A south wind is expected in the morning across OC and San Diego, but it could be manageable. Moderate NW ground swell is due Thursday into Friday. This will result in more peaks to be had throughout the forecast, with size a few notches smaller than what were expected to see over the weekend. The cut-off low mentioned above will pinch off from the jetstream by Monday morning and spin around SoCal for a few days. 6 to 7 ft. showers and steep seas will continue into Tuesday, along with Protected breaks were near chest high and fairly clean but with some light texture on it and closed out and soft. The swell pattern will be below normal before Jan and above normal after Jan 23 with the average of the two being 'normal'. Over the next 72 hours a trough is forecast developing over the Central South Pacific on Tues (5/2) being fed by 150 kt winds lifting northeast and then north on Wed (5/3) offering great support for gale development before starting to pinch off on Thurs (5/4) while moving east and out of the Southern CA swell window. PACIFIC OVERVIEW TODAY Gales associated with this system are shown locked in down the 300-320 degree directional band relative to the islands driving seas into the 25-30 ft range. We provide 7-day Wind, Wave and Weather Forecasts to help sailors with their passage planning and weather routing. Wind waves 3 to 6 ft and NW 3 to 4 ft. THU S wind 5 ktveering to W. Wind waves 2 ft or less. Swell Direction: 191 degrees. NDBC All data is from blended infrared and microwave sensors. As a result a significantly reduced number of storm days and storm intensity is expected Oct-Feb 2022, resulting in a below normal level of swells, with swell being below normal duration and period. SW wind 10 kt. Wind waves 1 to 3 ft. W swell 4 ft at 8 seconds building to SW 6 ft at 12 seconds after midnight. 0 (ft) View 2 day forecast. Pacific-Ocean wave (swell) map for surfers, windsurfers and sailors showing open ocean wave size, wave period and wave energy. No cool waters were on the equator anymore. The winds are looking similar to Saturday though, with more south wind expected for the morning. All content remains copyright of Wavetrak Limited unless stated otherwise, we'd kindly ask that you don't reproduce it in any form without our permission. On Sat AM (4/29) 40-45 kt northwest winds are forecast building well off the Pacific Northwest with seas 24 ft at 44.5N 142W aimed southeast. Today's temps are rising again at +2.478 after dropping to +2.145 (4/25) having previously peaked at +2.891 (4/13). A small started developing over the Northwestern Gulf on Wed AM (4/26) producing 35-40 kt west winds with seas building to 24 ft at 48N 166.75W aimed east. Long Range Forecast Mostly the same story as of late. W wind 5 kt. webmaster.ndbc@noaa.gov, Disclaimer Overview Swell W 8 to 9 ft at 10 seconds. Thank you to everyone who has donated! Famously surfed by Duke Kahanamoku in 1915 these sunshine beaches hold numerous classic set-ups. Sea Level Anomalies: (2/17) Sea heights were neutral over the Equatorial Pacific except one small area of -5 cms anomalies between 95W to 85W and losing coverage quickly. This Loiret geographical article is a stub. Analysis (TAO Buoys): As of (4/29) 5 day average winds were moderate from the east over the East equatorial Pacific and moderate east over the Central Pacific and moderate east over the KWGA. less. This system was gone after that. And perhaps a stronger system to develop over the dateline Wed-Thurs (3/3) producing up to 39 ft seas aimed east. forecast update: sw." Surfline on Instagram: "Modern warriors: @felixpatutra01 and @m_pang this afternoon in Teahupo'o. Previous - Temps rose in early Nov 2020 after bottoming out at -1.25 degs, up to -0.01 degs in mid-June 2021 then fading to -1.05 degs in mid-Nov then rebuilding to -0.7 in mid Feb 2022. Small North Gulf Gale And yet another gale is forecast developing in the Southeast Pacific tracking well northeast (see Southeast Pacific Gale below). Residuals on Mon (2/28) fading from 4.3 ft @ 13 secs (5.5 ft). Wind waves 2 ft or less The other swell will be a selective but fun WNW groundswell for winter spots. At a glance: You can customize the wave and wind maps with overlays for wind arrows, pressure and general weather for surfing. Models are still diverged, possible morning window, but at this time conditions look mostly unfavorable. In the evening fetch is to fading from 35 kts from the south with seas 32 ft at 45.5S 126.75W aimed northeast. Nino1.2 Daily CDAS Index Temps: (2/24) Today's temps were up some at -1.367 after rising to -0.650 degs on 1/9 and that after being down at -1.871 on 1/3 and -1.954 on 12/18, the lowest this year so far. TUE NIGHT Updated: Fri, 28-Apr-2023 08:53:54 UTC. this system was gone after that. Tuesday the 16th into Wednesday the 17th could see yet another southern hemi ground swell, and we can see why it, and the ones before it, have high potential for surf-worthy status in SoCal (model by FNMOC): That jetstream model shows a nice, ideal, northward bend in the jetstream, guiding storms off Antarctica to direct their swell energy toward SoCal. Boston, MA: Eastport, ME to South of New England. As southern hemisphere ground swell lingers from the most recent Antarctic swell, NW ground swell is already starting to fill in from that system that, although initially sitting just 1,100 nautical miles from SoCal, will dive south into SoCal as a cut-off low shortly (model generated by XyGrib from NFCENS data): That low is now diving south and starting to cut off from the jetstream, visible from space this morning on NOAA satellite (image from NOAA GOES): Circled in red we can see that cut-off low, starved of moisture, but with enough being drawn into it to bring rain to SoCal this week. Nearshore buoys were averaging 2.2'. Southeast winds around 10 mph shifting to the northeast in the afternoon. 00:37. On Fri AM (4/28) west winds were 40 kts about half way to the dateline with seas 31 ft at 43.5N 162.75E aimed east.